Day 1: Huaraz – Llaca Valley – Moraine Camp
We drive eastwards and upwards from Huaraz on a dirt road for 1.5 hours to the Llaca Valley (4470m). Here we put on our backpacks and climb steeply up a ridge for about 3 to 4 hours to Moraine Camp (5000m). The first 2 hours are on tough, steep ground, but then the route gets easier and traverses gradually to the campsite. All the way up we have amazing views of the nearby ridgeback Nevado Ocshapalca, the town of Huaraz and the Cordillera Negra. At night time from Moraine Camp, the lights of Huaraz way below are magical. In the afternoon we practice using ropes, knots and have some rock climbing instruction.
Day 2: Moraine Camp – Glacier – Moraine Camp
First, we climb up over moraine rock slabs for 30 minutes before we arrive at the glacier where we will have a full day of instruction. Instruction on snow and ice climbing, placing anchors, belayed and rope skills, glacier travel techniques, route selection and navigation, lead climbing, avalanche awareness, emergency shelter, crevasse and alpine rescue, ice climbing, climbing on mixed rock and ice.
Day 3: Moraine Camp – Vallunaraju Summit – Moraine Camp – Huaraz
We leave early to climb to the Summit. It is a steady and not steep on good snow slopes towards the Summit (5686m). The last 60m to the Summit is steeper and more exposed. You will practice and reinforce the techniques you have been learning on the previous day. We then return to Moraine Camp to pack our tents and descend to the Llaca Valley where our transport will be waiting for us.
It is necessary to carry all equipment from the vehicle up to the basecamp. The way up to the camp is a dirty and rocky trail which is steep and demanding for about the first two hours. Our crew carry the tents, food and equipment, but you need to carry your own personal gear (and must have a backpack large enough for this). Our crew will carry as much of your climbing gear as they can manage.
We classify the course and climbing as Hard because of the altitude and the steep, tough nature of the hike up to camp while carrying your gear, do make it demanding. The intensive nature of the climbing instruction is also physically demanding. You need to be strong enough to carry a moderate-weight backpack up the steep trail. For the fit, strong and well-acclimatized this is a great, challenging adventure; you should not consider this course unless you have above average fitness and are generally strong.
It is important that you are well acclimatized to the altitude before attempting to climb any peak, thus avoiding any potential problems with lack of energy or any altitude-related illnesses when climbing. Climbing above 5000m is physically demanding, even when the climbing itself is not steep or technical. On this ascent you go from Huaraz (3090m) directly to the Moraine Camp (5130m), constituting an altitude gain of 2014m in a single day. It is therefore extremely important that you are already well acclimatized. We always recommend a trek of minimum 4 days for acclimatization and extra fitness
What is included
- Transport: From your hotel in Huaraz to the starting point of your course, and from the finishing point of your course back to your hotel in Huaraz. We use minivans or 4x4 depending on the size of the group.
- Guide: Qualified and experienced mountain guide who speaks Spanish and basic English.
- Food: Breakfast, packed lunch and dinner.
- Equipment: Good quality high mountain tent, sleeping mattress, ropes, carabiners, dining tent (depending on group size), table and chairs, first aid kit, cooking stove, dishes and cooking utensils.
What is not included
Entrance fee of 65 Soles for the National Park, first breakfast, last dinner, soft drinks or alcoholic beverages, medical treatment, travel insurance, tips, additional expenses as a result of leaving the expedition early, additional expenses as a result of an emergency rescue or evacuation, bottled water, toilet paper
- Mountain backpack (40 liters)
- Sleeping bag (-25 C)
- Walking sticks if you have knee problems
- Plastic mountain boots
- Ice axe
- Head torch (with spare batteries)
- Sun protection: sunscreen (factor 40 minimum), hat, sunglasses
- Well-worn in hiking boots or trekking shoes
- Comfortable clothes: t-shirts (quick dry or merino wool recommended), trekking trousers or leggings, sweater, woolen trekking socks, underwear, long thermal underwear, fleece, gloves, hat
- Down jacket
- Waterproof jacket and trousers (Gore-Tex recommended)
- Gore-Tex gloves
- Water bottle and water purification pills
- Toilet paper, personal toiletries, small towel
- Extra snacks and money
Missing something? We can provide you with everything you need for a great expedition, just let us know how we can help.