« Back

The two routes to climb Artesonraju are:
- Via the Paron Valley South East Ridge 5 days
- Via Santa Cruz Valley North East Ridge 6 days

Conditions on Artesonraju are often difficult and unstable. Generally each year the route on one of the faces proves to be dangerous with high avalanche risk and climbing is only attempted from the alternative route. The decision as to which route is in safest condition to climb often cannot be made until just weeks before or even days before the climb. When planning your trip you should allow extra days in the event that the climbing is moved to the longer North East route for safety.


ITINERARY

Southeast Face from Paron Valley

Day 1: Huaraz – Laguna Paron

Drive from Huaraz to Caraz and then on to Laguna Paron (3½ to 4 hours) then we trek around the lake to either camp at the head of the lake (1½ hours) or climb up above the lake one hour more to a nice camp in trees by a stream (4200m).

Day 2: Laguna Paron – High Camp

We climb up on a moraine ridge and then up onto the glacier to the High Camp (5100m).

Day 3: High Camp – Summit - High Camp

We leave camp early for the summit climb. The route average steepness is between 45° and up to 70° with some pitches up to 85°. Often the climb commences with long stretches of soft snow before turning into hard ice as altitude increases. The slope gets steeper on the two last pitches of 100m requiring belays. 12 to 14 hours for the day.

Day 4: High Camp – Laguna Paron

Descend to Base Camp at Laguna Paron

Day 5: Laguna Paron – Huaraz

Walk around the lake to meet our transport, which will take us back to Huaraz.


North East Face from Santa Cruz Valley

Day 1: Huaraz – Cashapampa – Llamacorral

Drive 2 ½ hours from Huaraz to Cashapampa (2900m). Our gear is loaded onto donkeys and we hike 4 to 5 hours up the Santa Cruz Valley to camp near the river at Llamacorral (3750m).

Day 2: Llamacorral – Base Camp

An easy walk 5 hours up the valley still following the Santa Cruz route before turning off and making a short climb up to Base Camp Artesonraju (4250m) which is situated almost at the base of Artesonraju.

Day 3: Base Camp – Moraine Camp

Hike up through some low scrub and trees to reach a moraine ridge. We climb up the moraine ridge (sometimes slippery and steep) for about 5 hours until we reach the Moraine Camp (5000m).

Day 4: Moraine Camp – High Camp

A short climb through the rocks to reach the glacier. About 4 hours climbing up the glacier on slopes 35° to 40° negotiating around crevasses and exposed ice bridges. There is a short steeper slope to climb just before reaching the High Camp (5600m).

Day 5: High Camp – Summit - Moraine Camp - Base Camp

Summit Day. An early start, beginning with climbing an ice wall up to a 65°, followed by a gentle slope leading up to the final ice wall around 280m of 70° a 80° slope. After the ice wall there is a false summit which involves negotiating around an exposed crevasses to reach the true summit (6025m). Descend by the same route to either Base Camp or stop at Moraine Camp for the night. Around 12 to 14 hours.

Day 6: Base Camp – Cashapampa – Huaraz

Hike out to Cashapampa 7 to 8 hours where our transport will return us to Huaraz.

What is included

  • Transport: From Huaraz to the starting point of your activity, and from the finishing point of your activity back to Huaraz. We use prived transport, minivans, and other types of cars, depending on the size of the group.
  • Guide: Qualified and experienced mountain guide who speaks Spanish and basic English.
  • Cook: A professional cook who is trained to prepare healthy dishes in a hygienic manner.
  • Donkey driver: In charge of loading the donkeys, looking after them and guiding them.
  • Donkeys: The number of donkeys provided depends on the size of the group. Donkeys carry tents, food, climbing rope up to Base Camp and back, but you need to carry your own personal gear.
  • Food: Breakfast, packed lunch and dinner.
  • Equipment: Good quality high mountain tent, sleeping mattress, ropes, carabiners, dining tent (depending on group size), table and chairs, first aid kit, cooking stove, dishes and cooking utensils.
  • Entrances fee: for the national park.

What is not included

First breakfast, last dinner, soft drinks or alcoholic beverages, medical treatment, travel insurance, tips, additional expenses as a result of leaving the expedition early, additional expenses as a result of an emergency rescue or evacuation, bottled wáter.

What to bring
  • Mountain backpack (40 liters)
  • Sleeping bag (-25 C)
  • Walking sticks if you have knee problems
  • Plastic mountain boots
  • Gaiters
  • Crampons
  • Ice axe
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Head torch (with spare batteries)
  • Sun protection: sunscreen (factor 40 minimum), hat, sunglasses
  • Well-worn in hiking boots or trekking shoes
  • Comfortable clothes: t-shirts (quick dry or merino wool recommended), trekking trousers or leggings, sweater, woolen trekking socks, underwear, long thermal underwear, fleece, gloves, hat
  • Down jacket
  • Waterproof jacket and trousers (Gore-Tex recommended)
  • Gore-Tex gloves
  • Water bottle and water purification pills
  • Toilet paper, personal toiletries, small towel
  • Extra snacks and money
  • Missing something? We can provide you with everything you need for a great days expeditions, Please check each trip for detailed pricing information or contact us for a customized trip and you can fully enjoy!!

Photo Gallery